Unmasking Mercury and Colorism in Cosmetics

About this Event

Hundreds of millions of people globally use skin-lightening products (SLPs). The use of SLPs is promoted by media, advertising and marketing that often reinforce the bias that a lighter skin tone is more desirable than darker skin tone. The bias is rooted in systemic colorism that promotes harmful stereotypes that associate lighter skin with beauty and better prospects of employment, marriage and social standing.

SLPs may contain harmful ingredients, including steroids, hydroquinone and toxic mercury compounds, that not only damage the skin but can lead to serious health concerns. Many cosmetic products still contain mercury to increase their whitening effect. The concentration of mercury in SLPs can vary based on manufacturing standards and labelling discrepancies, making it difficult for consumers and authorities to identify mercury in these products.

The Minamata Convention on Mercury explicitly bans the manufacture, import and export of mercury-added cosmetics. At its fifth meeting, the Conference of Parties (COP), the decision-making body of the Minamata Convention, decided to eliminate the 1 ppm threshold for mercury content in cosmetics, including skin lightening soaps and creams, thereby making it explicit that no mercury can be added to cosmetics. Parties to the Minamata Convention, who have companies in their jurisdiction that manufactures SLPs that contain mercury, will need to abide with the new Convention requirement. In 2023, the COP agreed to consider the challenges in phasing out the use of mercury in cosmetics and measures to address these challenges at its upcoming meeting in November 2025.

While there are some advances made, there is still insufficient awareness of health risks posed by mercury in cosmetics. Advertisements in social media, retail, television, billboards, and internet shopping platforms in many countries which have embedded colorism in marketing campaigns exacerbates the problem.

Ahead of International Women’s Day, this event aligned with this year’s thematic « For ALL women and girls: Rights. Equality. Empowerment » discussing an issue area where changes in social norms, stereotypes and ideas stuck in the past are highly necessary. Leading voices invited to speak at this event stressed that without addressing the underlying socio-cultural norms surrounding SLPs – the idealization of whiteness and the concepts association with beauty, wealth and power – the demand for SLPs will continue.

Speakers

By order of intervention. 

Brenda KOEKKOEK

Senior Coordination Officer, Minamata Convention on Mercury

Mrinalini RAI

Director, Women4Biodiversity

Amira ADAWE

Executive Director, Beauty Well

Anthony Blessing SAAH-BONKIE

Executive Director, Liberian Youth for Public Health Initiatives (LYPHIL) | Chemicals and Waste Youth Platform

Ghurni BHATTACHARYA

Youth Present Representative, World Future Council

Ruth ANDRADE

Environmental Partner, Lush

Malgorzata Alicja STYLO

Programme Management Officer, UN Environment Programme

Richard GUTIERREZ

Programme Management Officer, Minamata Convention on Mercury | Co-Moderator

Diana RIZZOLIO

Coordinator, Geneva Environment Network | Co-Moderator

Highlights

Summary

Opening Remarks

Brenda KOEKKOEK | Senior Coordination Officer, Minamata Convention on Mercury

• Mercury is a highly toxic substance with no safe level of exposure, posing significant health risks, especially to children, pregnant women, and women of childbearing age. While mercury exposure primarily comes from consuming contaminated seafood, other pathways, such as cosmetics, also pose serious threats.
• SLPs containing mercury highlight how this toxic element directly impacts people’s everyday lives. The inorganic mercury found in skin-lightening creams and soaps can cause severe adverse health effects, making their regulation a critical issue under the Minamata Convention.
• The issue of mercury in cosmetics was a major focus at the fifth COP to the Minamata Convention in 2023. Led by the African region, this initiative resulted in eliminating the one ppm threshold for mercury in cosmetics, making it explicit that no mercury can be added to such products under the convention.
• The COP reinforced the message that mercury and other hazardous substances in cosmetics are entirely unacceptable. As part of this decision, the convention’s secretariat has been mandated to prepare a report on the implementation of this phase-out, which will be evaluated at the upcoming COP in Geneva this year. The draft report will soon be available online for public input.
• Despite bans in many countries and international regulations, mercury-containing SLPs remain widely accessible both in local markets and through online platforms. Online marketplaces, including Amazon, are now under scrutiny, and Amazon’s recent decision to block sales of mercury-containing SLPs in response to a lawsuit under California’s Proposition 65 is a positive step forward.
• Beyond regulatory action, beauty standards perpetuated by media and marketing reinforce harmful biases that associate lighter skin with desirability. Many users of toxic SLPs are unaware of the health risks or are unable to resist the social pressures that drive their use. Advertising and marketing practices that promote such damaging beauty ideals must be addressed.
• This event, co-organized with the Geneva Environment Network and UNEP, seeks to highlight the intersection between mercury exposure and colorism, emphasizing the need for stronger regulations and social awareness to combat discrimination based on skin tone in cosmetics.

Mrinalini RAI | Director, Women4Biodiversity

• SLPs have been widely normalized in many cultures, particularly in Asia, where fairer skin is traditionally associated with beauty, higher social status, and desirability. These deeply ingrained beliefs continue to pressure individuals, including men, into using such products.
• The marketing of SLPs has evolved beyond just skin whitening, incorporating terms like « brightening, » « correction, » and « even tone ». The beauty industry has also shifted towards promoting youthfulness and flawless skin, further expanding the reach of these products.
• The use of SLPs is not limited to women; men are also increasingly targeted through advertising and social pressures. The beauty standards reinforced by media, entertainment, and social expectations continue to drive demand for these products.
• Colorism, linked to historical and colonial influences, remains a pressing issue, affecting not only personal self-image but also societal perceptions of status and wealth. Younger generations, even as early as 8–9 years old, are now exposed to these beauty standards through social media, making it more difficult to counteract harmful messaging.
• While there are global movements promoting self-acceptance and campaigns that challenge colorism, the demand for SLPs continues to rise. Market research indicates an increase in the industry’s value, demonstrating that despite growing awareness, the preference for lighter skin remains strong.
• The Minamata Convention and other regulatory efforts play a crucial role in addressing the health risks of mercury in cosmetics. Civil society, women’s groups, and youth activists are driving awareness and policy changes. However, stronger policies and enforcement mechanisms are needed to curb the market for hazardous SLPs.
• Mercury in SLPs is not just a health issue – it also contributes to pollution and environmental harm. Mercury from these products can enter waterways, affecting biodiversity and ecosystems. The connection between pollution, human health, and the environment must be recognized in global frameworks, such as the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework.
• There is a need for continued research on the environmental and health impacts of mercury in cosmetics, as well as stronger integration of this issue into international policy frameworks to ensure effective action.

Amira ADAWE | Executive Director, Beauty Well

• Colorism is a global and deeply rooted form of discrimination against darker skin tones, historically linked to colonialism and slavery. Lighter-skinned individuals were given better opportunities in education and employment, while darker-skinned individuals were exploited for labor and excluded from social mobility.
• In the United States, slavery reinforced colorism by favoring lighter-skinned Black individuals for privileged roles, a pattern that persisted through practices like the Brown Paper Bag Test. Many post-colonial societies continue to associate lighter skin with beauty, success, and higher status.
• Social media plays a major role in normalizing skin-lightening practices through advertisements, tutorials, and influencer endorsements, despite some restrictions like TikTok banning product ads in the U.S. Algorithms promote lighter-skinned individuals, and many young people feel pressured to filter their images or avoid posting unedited photos.
• Youth in the U.S., Kenya, and Somalia report concerns about the lack of representation of darker-skinned individuals in media and advertising. Entertainment industries favor lighter-skinned individuals in marketing, modeling, and journalism, making it harder for darker-skinned professionals to access these careers.
• Colorism contributes to low self-esteem, internalized biases, and mental health issues, particularly among young people. It reinforces inequalities in education, employment, and economic mobility, limiting opportunities for those with darker skin tones.
• Addressing colorism requires rejecting colorblindness, acknowledging its presence in institutions and internal biases, and actively educating others through discussions in professional and personal settings. Celebrating diverse skin tones helps challenge traditional beauty standards.
• Global efforts, including initiatives by UNEP and the Minamata Convention, aim to address the harmful effects of SLPs and raise awareness about the social and health consequences of colorism.

Anthony Blessing SAAH-BONKIE | Executive Director, Liberian Youth for Public Health Initiatives (LYPHIL) | Chemicals and Waste Youth Platform

• The impact and role of social media in promoting and challenging toxic mercury skin lightening is an important issue in Liberia, where many young people spend hours on social media daily. As Western culture becomes easily accessible online, young people increasingly feel targeted by messages on different platforms and strive for lighter, flawless skin.
• According to a report in 2023, over 15 billion AI-generated images were created in a year, impacting the mental health and self-image of youth. Many young people use photo editing apps to meet these impossible, imaginary beauty standards.
• Organizations in Africa and around the world have been using social media for public education campaigns, promoting self-love, and informing the danger of SLPs. They have successfully taught youth that they are perfect as they are, and that there is no reason to be ashamed of their natural skin.
• To push against the narrative that drives people to harm themselves with toxic SLPs, we need to take a step further with clear messages on the right to know the impacts of those products we put on our bodies.
• The Chemicals and Waste Youth Platform has been leveraging digital platforms to connect youth worldwide in advocacy efforts against toxic chemicals, hazardous waste, and pollution. One key outcome was the organization of over a dozen youth consultations across regions, leading to the development of the first Global Youth Declaration, presented to the World Chemicals Conference in 2023.

Ghurni BHATTACHARYA | Youth Present Representative, World Future Council

• Nelson Mandela once stated, “No one is born hating another person because of the color of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite.” We are here to reimagine this world together.
• Whoever controls the media controls the mind, since media is a major tool for knowledge production. I grew up seeing advertisements excluding dark skin tones and promoting lighter complexions as ideal. One company claimed « If you are fair, then you are lovely”, which faced backlash and later renamed the brand. However, dropping the word « fair » did not change consumer demand. Popular brands continue to sell whitening products, for example, « White Glow Day and Night Pack« , endorsing colorism rooted in colonialism.
• High consumer demand for SLPs is particularly evident among youth on social media, where videos showing the transition from darker to lighter skin tones get high views. Moreover, even if clinics advise against certain SLPs, consumers request alternatives that could be used. This shows how the obsession for glass skin, especially prevalent in Korea, is also deeply rooted in youth mindsets in India.
• Bollywood celebrities, who have long endorsed SLPs, played a major role in shaping beauty standards. Lyrics of Bollywood songs have also promoted colorism, escalating India’s obsession with lighter skin.
• In India, color-based bullying remains a serious issue. In 2025, a teenage boy committed suicide after being bullied for his skin color, showing how “Black is everyone’s favorite color until it comes to skin”.
• From a legal perspective, India has a very stringent regulation banning the manufacturing and import of cosmetics containing mercury compounds. Recently, cosmetics worth seven lakh rupees that violated the regulation have been successfully seized, highlighting the legal efforts to tackle this issue.
• One of the practical solutions we have seen is social media activism, which has significantly removed skin color selection from a reputed matrimonial website. Social media influencers are actively working to eliminate colorism, and hashtag campaigns such as Colorism Ends With Me encourage individuals to take a pledge and join the movement. Similarly, the Dark is Beautiful campaign invites people to share their perception of beauty. Various cosmetic brands are also taking the initiative to promote inclusivity and diversity in the beauty industry.
• Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. It is important to be you, and the world will adjust.

Ruth ANDRADE | Environmental Partner, Lush

• LUSH is a cosmetics company based in the UK, having the purpose of “leaving the world Lusher than we found it”.
• There is a long history of the link between cosmetics use and the health of humans and ecosystems. Queen Elizabeth used white lead and vinegar for skin whitening, which led to hair loss, death, and contamination of ecosystems. The practice was exported through colonialism and the British Empire and has lasted a long time.
• The role of the beauty industry is to create beauty and not harm. It is important to do soul-searching and reflect on how to stop creating so much harm.
• LUSH believes that “What’s inside counts”, focusing on the ingredients of the products and the inner side of humans rather than their appearance.
• We strongly oppose conventional beauty stereotypes. We never use words like “wrinkle” or “lightening”, nor do we design products to change natural features. Instead, we focus on supporting the skin’s natural healing abilities.
• LUSH tries to make products to meet a diverse range of needs, for different hair and skin types. We are aware of the impacts of colorism, and we are eager to work as a company to further address this issue. We have never and will never sell SLPs, and instead, we want to celebrate the beauty of all skin tones.
• The brand is also careful about choices and representation, always featuring real people as models and challenging the industry norms.
• In 2021, whistleblower reports revealed that Meta and Facebook were aware of the harm the platforms were causing to their users, especially young women, but failed to take action. LUSH made a considered decision to leave social media in the same year to not attract our audience and consumers to platforms that cause harm. We have also actively campaigned against predatory algorithms.
• We have a structural problem, and the beauty industry needs to do more than just not selling SLPs or having diverse models in marketing campaigns. We also have a duty and responsibility to tackle the root cause.
• At LUSH, we use our platform to champion some of the causes through campaigns, often partnering with grassroots organizations. For example, in 2020, we hosted a local campaign in the Netherlands and Belgium with the aim of normalizing the Dutch Sinterklass party without the imagery of Black Peter at the Saint Nicholas celebrations. For four years, we have been advocating and selling products to raise funds for nonprofits working on educating society.
• We have also put up signage encouraging people to write a letter to their municipality, businesses, and schools, raise funds, or volunteer to help replace this tradition.
• As soon as the Trump government announced a crackdown on diversity, equity, and inclusion, we renamed three of our products “Diversity”, “Equity”, and “Inclusion”, to make a statement that we stand firm in our solidarity to support these movements.

Q&A

Q. What are your views on the case against Amazon mentioned in the opening remark? Do you think it has a broader global impact?

Amira ADAWE

• The case is expected to create a global impact. In 2019, we launched a campaign against Amazon, gathering 25,000 petitions from communities across the US to oppose the sale of mercury and SLPs on Amazon. In response, 15 products coming from the US and UK were removed. This success shows how changes in major global entities like Amazon can encourage others to follow.

Q. Considering the context of Liberia, how can social media be used to end colorism?

Anthony Blessing SAAH-BONKIE

• In Liberia, many young people use the internet to interact on a daily basis, and it has also been used recently to mitigate social stigmatization.
• Social media can be used to end colorism in Liberia in two days. First, by creating hashtags to educate people on the public health implications of mercury-containing products, which is not well known in society yet. Second, by using hashtags to promote the idea of embracing the color that they were born with.

Closing remarks

Malgorzata Alicja STYLO | Programme Management Officer, UN Environment Programme

• UNEP and the Minamata Convention on Mercury are at the forefront of the powerful movement, tackling mercury pollution not just as an environmental crisis but also linking it to human rights and public health agendas.
• At the 5th COP to the Minamata Convention on Mercury in 2023, Parties decided to eliminate the 1 ppm threshold for mercury content in cosmetics, making it explicit that no mercury should be added to cosmetics.
• Through the Global Environment Facility-funded “Eliminating Mercury Skin Lightening Products” project, UNEP, in partnership with Gabon, Jamaica, and Sri Lanka, is working to strengthen regulations, dismantle supply chains, and train enforcement officials to ensure that toxic beauty products are not in the market.
• The UNEP Global Mercury Partnership mobilizes the private sector and civil society to advance efforts to eliminate SLPs containing mercury and challenge the deep-rooted colorism that fuels demand for these harmful products.
• Gabon is at the forefront of the fight against toxic SLPs; it adopted the Libreville Commitment on the elimination of mercury-containing skin-lightening cosmetics in Africa in January 2025, driving the development of a full-size project targeting 13 African countries and five countries in Asia and Latin America and the Caribbean. The initiative is expected to be launched in 2026, upon approval of the donors. The project will take a holistic, multi-faceted approach, integrating behavioral, regulatory, and enforcement interventions, to address the full life cycle of SLPs in physical and online markets. Effective coordination at national, regional, and global levels will be required for lasting impact and sustainability.
• This is more than a fight against toxic chemicals; it is a fight for health, dignity, and justice. Eradicating mercury in SLPs leads to not only protecting lives but also dismantling harmful beauty standards and advancing true equity. Tackling mercury pollution and racial discrimination jointly will enable us to transform harmful practices and ensure a healthier, more inclusive future for future generations.

Video

Live on Webex.

Documents

• Presentations made during the event

Links

• Mercury in cosmetics – more than what meets the eye | Minamata Convention on Mercury
• UNEP knowledge hub on eliminating mercury containing SLPs
• Geneva addressing Hazardous Substances